Kari Apla Review: Creativity And Comfort Converge At This Restaurant In Bandra

Do the cosiest areas have the perfect meals? When requested concerning the must-visit spots within the metropolis, many will identify a hole-in-the-wall joint that has been round for many years. Others might have a delicate spot for a more moderen discovery. Indeed, there may be one thing extremely satisfying about discovering a brand new foodie nook in a bustling a part of the town. We felt the identical after a current eating expertise. In Mumbai, few different neighbourhoods are as abuzz because the Khar-Bandra west stretch. In the previous few years, the localities round Pali Hill have turn out to be floor zero for quite a lot of culinary ventures. One of them is Kari Apla, which opened in direction of the tip of 2023.

Kari Apla is helmed by Chefs Ebaani Tewari and Mathew Varghese. The duo have drawn from the richness of their houses and historical past to conceptualise their collectively owned restaurant. Apart from her expertise within the kitchens of Taj Lands End and Bastian, Chef Ebaani brings influences from Maharashtra, Karnataka, Goa, and Andhra Pradesh to the desk. Chef Mathew, a Keralite, channels his ardour for the normal substances and strategies of the area. He has labored at a number of Taj lodge eating places throughout the nation and was additionally a part of the opening staff at Comorin in Gurgaon. The meals at Kari Apla traces the tangent of their childhood {and professional} journeys. The two phrases within the identify are additionally a nod to their heritage: “Kari” is derived from “Kariveppila” (or curry leaves in Malayalam) and “Apla” interprets to “our” in Marathi. 

The 20-seater area manages to steadiness its practicalities and allure successfully. The restaurant is cosy however would not really feel cramped. The open kitchen setting exudes heat, however not actually. As we take our seats on the counter inside, Chef Mathew explains that the kitchen has been purposefully designed to maintain the warmth, scent and smoke away from the diners. “Having such a setting allows us to make the most of the space and also allows us to interact with guests more,” he provides. Every member of the employees, together with the chef-owners, is concerned in all service actions. While getting to look at cooks at work isn’t precisely a novelty, the character of the expertise at Kari Apla is nearly homely.

Like the area, the menu is an suave curation reasonably than an expansive imposition. We dig into the Avocado Thecha first, scooping it up with crisp Sindhi-inspired Batata Papad. The creamy avocado combats the extra fiery facet of the thecha. But we’d describe it as a fusion reasonably than a compromise. After all, who knew Maharashtrian-style guac and chips might truly style so good?

There’s one other chip-and-dip-combo on the menu, which takes the experimentation up a notch. The Kadala Curry Hummus with Chilli Crisp, Fennel and Coriander Seed Lavash is kind of a mouthful – and we’re not simply speaking concerning the identify. Turning a beloved curry into hummus was a daring step, however we have been greater than satisfied. The easy but spicy unfold was appropriately fragrant. We loved the added crunch offered by the chana jhor. Among the vegetarian appetisers, we additionally appreciated the Jackfruit and Peanut Cutlets, served with coconut chutney.

The cooks continued to attract us in with comforting home-style dishes, such because the Suriani Prawns. This dish has been impressed by Chef Mathew’s Syrian Christian household recipes. We additionally advocate the Mangalorean Kori Sukka, served with mini rice flour and coconut bhakris. We’ve tasted (and cherished) spicier sukka dishes. While this one was not as pungent, it nonetheless did justice to the layers of flavours. We additionally appreciated the Hyderabadi Mutton Haleem and do-it-yourself pav. The bread was toasted in a particular mint and lemon-flavoured butter.

There isn’t any alcohol served at Kari Apla. We paired our meals with rejuvenating House Sodas. The kokum one complemented the non-veg dishes particularly nicely. The Chilli Jackfruit soda was fantastically balanced, with only a small trace of warmth hitting your palette on the finish. Hot and chilly chocolate and coffee-based drinks can be found too.

As we ate, we heard the employees calling to one another for an additional serving of “KFC”. As we watched them put together recent items of Kerala Fried Chicken, we needed to ask to style some. After all, the dish was (actually) simply inside attain and regarded too crisp to withstand. Diners selecting the indoor seating, beware – related temptations might befall you.

The principal course choices are restricted however scrumptious. There are 5 “bowls”, of which three function curry and rice. The one rice exception is Moilee served with Vattayappam. For the uninitiated, this can be a calmly candy, spongy accompaniment made by steaming appam batter. The Moilee at Kari Apla would not have solely the standard vegetable or fish (prawn) variations. There’s additionally the Chennai Omelette. The cooks inform us that they’d fallen in love with this egg variation of the Moilee at an iconic restaurant within the southern metropolis. Two bites have been all we would have liked to grasp their adoration. The fluffy omelette was bursting with the moilee sauce, because the egg is extra absorbent than fish. If the slight sweetness of the vattayappam is to not your style, scoop up the moilee with the scallion chilli parotta.

If you’re craving some good previous fish curry rice, do not hesitate to pick out the Karwari Prawn Curry with steamed Ambemohar Rice. The tangy, coconut-milk-based curry was barely just like Goan sorak. Again, the cooks delighted us with their refined refinement of a home-style delicacy.

The spectacular streak continued until the tip. The Tender Coconut Pudding right here redefines what a minimalistic dessert could possibly be. It combines coconut milk and flesh (malai) to make a naturally candy dish that can also be lactose-free. If you’ve got the inclination (and tummy area) for one thing extra indulgent, do not miss the Warm Banana Bread with Filter Coffee Ice Cream. The mixture is impressed by Chef Mathew’s reminiscences of hawkers promoting banana fritters and filter espresso on prepare rides in Kerala. The ice cream retains a number of the hallmark grittiness of the espresso and the bitter undertones. It is a worthy deal with by itself. But the banana bread ingeniously provides texture and heat. This is a dessert price returning for.

As we wrapped up our meal, different orders continued to take form earlier than our eyes. On one dessert plate, we noticed Chef Ebaani use icing to write down, “You’re Dead To Us”. Noticing our startled appears to be like, she shortly offered context. “It’s the farewell dinner for one of the members of the team seated outside,” she clarified. As we joined her in laughing on the caption, she admitted, “I’ve never had such a request before!” The incident epitomised our expertise of eating at Kari Apla. Here, you’ll be able to get pleasure from laughs with the cooks and the lip-smacking consolation meals they craft in entrance of you. Like the various dichotomies that characterise this restaurant, it’s a profitable mixture. 

Where: